For sale.

For Sale,

2003 Peugeot Speedfight 2 100cc.

Silver paintwork, plastics all complete with no cracks. One or 2 small scraps but nothing to worry abaout.

Frame has been sandblasted back to bear metal, then zinc oxided and then repainted, no rust on this bike at all. Exhaust was also blasted and repainted in heat resistant paint. Cylinder head and barrel vapour blasted at the same time, like new now!

New engine gaskets, new spark plug with a spare

Brand new rear tyre, front tyre almost new, the bike was recently subject to a complete strip down and rebuild, all the nuts and bolts have been replaced with either zinc plated or stainless steel where possible. Looks stunning.

Garaged since the rebuild.

Just been serviced by Dedman Perfomance.

Starts on the button. No mechanical issues at all. Now up for sale to fund new project:

£950 ono.

Gavin.

How to Helicoil

OK, we have all done it, and we have all found to our shame that someone else has done it!

Stripped a thread.

Doesnt matter if this is on a bike, a car, its a nightmare if it happens to you, and there is only one real way of fixing the issue – Helicoils.

In this example we have got a stripped thread on a scooter, its an M6 bolt that goesin to the engine and holds the variator case on. To start with though, lets have a look at the Helicoil kit.

As you can see the kit has everything we need to do the job.

• A drill
• A tap
• A tap wrench
• The helicoils
• The insertion tool and the punch out tool.

So whats first?

Using the drill that came with the kit:

Its a 6.3mm drill bit, as the hole has to be a little larger than the actual thread, so you want to ONLY use the supplied bit with the kit as a 6mm one wont work.

Drill out the stripped thread:

Be careful to only go as deep as the original hole. Once done get an airline and blow the hole out so its nice and clean.

Now, fit the M6 tap into the tap wrench. CAREFULLY start winding the tap into the hole, it will start to cut a new thread. In alloy you can just keep turning it in (use a little WD40 to assist you), but with steel, for every full turn in, wind it back out a 1/2 turn to clear any swarf.

Only go as far as the tool, dont force it further, cos if you break the tap in the hole you will have a real issue trying to get it out again. Once its tapped, wind the tap back out of the hole and check the thread, you should have a nice clean new thread in there.

Now, fit a new helicoil to the helicoil insertion tool. It has a little tang on the end of it that goes into the hole first.

Carefully wind the helicoil into the new thread. It want to be a little bit inside the hole, but only by a mill or so. Then withdraw the tool.

You see the nice new thread in the hole now.

Now, put the punch out tool into the hole and give it a whack with a mallet or hammer.

This will knock the tang off the inside of the helicoil. Use an airline to get it out of the hole.

Thats it, you now have a thread thats actually stronger than the original one was.

These kits are pretty cheap, about 15 quid off ebay, but well worth having the ones you need if you do a lot of work on your bikes. I would also recommend anyone to invest in an airline and compressor, you can get good cheap ones from wolfonline.co.uk

Speedfight work

I have now finished and fitted the variator cover back to the scooter with new steel (zinc plated) cap head fixings, I think it looks pretty good.

Its like new again, and the fixings are much better.

I have also started with the front end, the first bit has been painted and is now back on the frame with new bearings top and bottom.

Speedfight

Lots of headway done on the scooter this weekend.

The frame has had its final coating of paint and is now dry. Today I mated it back with the finished rear end and got most of the loom re-fitted.

Its starting to look like a scooter again.

All the bolts have been replaced by stainless hex bolts (you only need an allen key to work on anything and they look good too).

Speedfight – last bits off to the blasters.

Tonight I stripped the front end to get the bits off to Rob the blaster http://www.robin-iom.co.uk

They look awful, but actually they feel solid enough – it was a complete pig to get them undone, as they were easily the most rusted parts on the entire bike.

Speedfight Exhaust

Just a quick close up of the exhaust of the Speedfight:

You can see here how it used to look:

Speedfight frame.

Over the weekend the frame was primed and tonight it got its first coat of top coat.

Its looking great already, only three coats to go

Speedfight – Engine is complete.

The engine is back in one piece.

I got the fan and the fan cover replaced and bolted back on, and most of the bolts have been replaced by zinc coated steel socket types.

As you can see the variator cover still needs work but thats off to my new mate Rob the blaster!

Only thing left to do is add a new spark plug and attach back to the frame.

Speedfight frame back

Got the frame and all the bits back from the sand blasters today. It looks a LOT better now.

This is the frame, side by side with the original so you can see the difference.

Old:

New:

Whats truly astounding though is how well the engine has come out, I dont have a pic of how it was, but its back like new and it was horrific:

I have started zinc oxiding some of the other bits, more to follow.

Completely stripped

Got the scoot completely stripped bear now, the engine and rear wheel assembly is now out and the whole thing set for cleaning and reassembly.

The amount of dirt and grime and oil around the engine is shocking, its been hard to clean, but as its protective what underneath is in pretty good shape over all. So, a list of things to do include.

Get a C Spanner to get the front off the frame.
Get the frame blasted and then repainted.
Get the wheels blasted back and painted.
Get the engine degreased and completly cleaned up.
Start reassembly, Ill need new shocks front and back, new front arm (its beyond repair), and a new exhaust.

Just need to find a decent shot blaster now.