Well, it was a heart wrenching thing to do to the poor bike, but its been broken and all the bits have been sold on ebay.
All in all I figure that I got about 1000 pounds for the bike, which if you consider its true worth wasnt soo bad. The Carbs went for over 150 on their own.
So, onwards to the next plan….
The race bike is no more.
I have decided that the bike isnt getting used enough, Im never going to race it again, and so, its currently being broken on eBay.
Well had a good look inside with a flash light and the inside looks pretty clean actually, no rust that I can see.
I blocked the holes up, filled it with hot soapy water and then got the pressure washer and blasted the insides with it.
Lots of what looked like white paint flecs came out with that???
Drained all the water out and then blasted it with an airline – then squirted about 1/2 tin of WD40 into it and then blasted it again with an airline.
All good fun, its looks dry enough now, but have left it open and Ill leave it a couple of days until refitting.
I was asked to take some pics of the electrics of the 400 while I had the tank and all off, and so here they are:
The ignition.
Close up #1 of the wiring.
Close up #2 of the wiring.
I hope thats of some help!
As I have the fuel tank off, and drained it, I guessed it might be a good idea to have a look at the fuel tap assembly and work out how the thing actually worked.
Its a little more complex than it looks at first glance – to start with there are two fuel lines that feed a bank of two carbs each, there is also a 6mm line that goes to the carb manifold and creates a vacuum.
The fuel lines are self-explanitory, but the reason for the vacuum hose less so. On the GSXR there is no fuel pump, it just relies on good old gravity to get the fuel to the carbs. There is also no shut off on the tap itself, so what happens is, that when the engine isnt running the vacuum isnt created and the fuel tap closes by the means of a small piston with a seal in it at the back of the tap.
Thats what this bit is – the hole is where the hose pulls air through, and the round bit in the metal there is a seal with a small piston in the middle on a spring.
Now just to confuse matters there are 3 positions on the fuel tap itself:
Reserve and On just mean what part of the filter that the fuel goes down, however and this is interesting, when you have it set on PRI, there is a small pin in the back of the tap, and when you turn it to that position youll feel the tap move in slightly, as its on a slight cam, that pin pushes back onto the piston seal and opens it without the vacuum having to be present.
Dont leave it like that though as it will fill the floats and eventually they will over flow. It will also make the bike run extremely rich.
So now you know!
Close up of the filter, so you can see how the on and reserve work!
Have done a little bit today, cleaned the garage and mopped the floor, gave everything a clean up and finally reattached the exhuast headers to the bottom mount bracket.
After jacking the bike up on the front and rear stands and getting fully under it, its apparent there was a little damage done to the mount itself and its a bit twisted. I got it straight and fitted back OK though.
The pipe is now sealed and airtight at the collector join and I have smarted it up a little with an old baked bean can 
Just been checking calendars and whatnot and the next time the bike is going to be out will be August the 10th for a trackday at Jurby.
So I dont really know what im going to do in the mean time – I guess a bit of cleaning and polishing of the bike. There isnt that much that really needs doing to it so itll be merely cosmetic.
Saying that I could go back to EvoMoto and get the thing dyno’d…. hmmmm.
Nothing to report as I didnt make it for one reason or another.
Poor form and all that.
Not been much updates recently so Ill bring the blog up to date.
I have fixed the link pipe and got a new end can for the bike (Art race can for 30 quid).
The new shocker has been tightened up and I have backed the spring off a bit and given it less rebound and compression damping – wont know how the setting is until the next practise I guess.
The fairing has all been patched up and I have filled and resprayed the seat unit, that came up pretty good for a DIY job really.
The rearset that was made up by Ronnie has been fitted.
The broken water pipe has been replaced and fitted.
All the bodywork is now back on.
I have thrown some petrol in and she started first go, so no engine problems luckily.
So all in all the bikes back together and would seem to be ready for the next meeting next weekend, I might get some new photos up later as well.
Had a little time this afternoon and completed the fitting of the rear shock.
As I mentioned before the suspension linkage is a little proud and doesnt quite clear the bottom of the shock and the spring hits it. I have ground out the problem bit and now it fits a treat, as shown here:
This is the amount that you have to remove.
Its not very clear but your basically making that surface flat – I used an angle grinder to do it, but if you wanted to be posh get an engineering mate to machine it off. Be careful as the main rocker bearing is under that and you dont want to take off enough that you hit it.
Once thats done then the shock simply drops in and all the holes line up, if they dont then you might need to take a little more off.
As i said before, youll have to use a couple of spacer washers on the dogs to move them out a little or they will hit the shock spring, but thats all.
This is it in situ:
You can see the bottom of the shock now clears the rocker, and everything is done up. Job done 
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